Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto
Shanghai, China | Diller Scofidio + Renfro
For this exhibition showcasing Chanel garments, the lighting design emphasized precision, elegance, and minimal visual intrusion. The aim was to honor the craftsmanship of each piece while maintaining spatial clarity. Adjustable track heads provided flexible, focused illumination, enabling curators to reposition lighting as needed without disrupting the aesthetic. Framing projectors sculpted light around garments, highlighting textures and silhouettes while avoiding spill and shadows onto surrounding surfaces.
To protect delicate materials, each garment was lit to just 5 footcandles. Controlled ambient light and strategic contrast created the perception of brightness through contrast, not intensity. Distinct backdrops with varying color temperatures emphasized seasonal differences, while uniform 3000K, high-CRI front light provided cohesion.
In the Chanel Suits gallery, discreet case lights augmented dynamic projections while meeting strict light level limits. In the “little black dress” case, concealed coves provided ambient light that revealed dark fabrics, aided by carefully aimed framing projectors avoiding reflections on curved glass.
In the day-to-night gallery, brightness balance between light and dark spaces was finely tuned. Films applied to museum track fixtures simulated warm daylight, while footcandle limits were maintained. Spotlights were precisely framed to eliminate shadows on elevated pedestals.
press
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"Chanel’s Itinerant Gabrielle Chanel Exhibition Lands in Shanghai"
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"A Look At The Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto Retrospective In Shanghai"
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"Chanel Fashion President Bruno Pavlovsky on Shanghai exhibition and the Maison's heritage"
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